Notes from the field.
What is happening in the parks, which camps have changed hands, and what we would book right now.
The best time to visit the Maasai Mara
Month by month, and what each one actually gets you.
What a Kenya safari actually costs
Real numbers, what drives them, and where the money goes.
Gorilla permits, explained
Uganda or Rwanda, what a permit costs, and how far ahead to book.
Is Kenya safe for a safari?
A straight answer from people who live here.
What to pack for a safari
The list, and the things people bring that they should not.
Conservancy or reserve?
The single decision that changes a Mara trip more than any other.
The case for the green season
Fewer vehicles, better light, lower rates — and the honest drawbacks.
What 15kg actually means
A packing list for light aircraft, written by someone who has been weighed.
Is three days in the Maasai Mara enough?
What you actually see on a short first safari — and what you miss.
A week in Uganda: gorillas, chimps and the rest
Why the country rewards more than the three nights most people give it.
Safari and Zanzibar: how to combine them
The order matters, the flights matter, and four nights beats two.
Kenya and Tanzania in one trip
Two countries, one migration, and the border crossing nobody explains.